Every makeup artist I have ever spoken to says eyebrows are the most important facial feature. All angles of the face are determined by the brows: they can lift the eyes; narrow or widen the face. While there is a lot of opportunity here, it is important to let your natural shape be your guide. It is probably close to optimal for your face and anything too drastic can look unnatural. Here are some techniques from our team of fabulous makeup artist educators.
- The inner edge of the brow should line up with the outside of the corresponding nostril (A).
- The highest point of the arch should be just at the outer edge of the eyeball. (B)
- The outer brow should taper off to a point that intersects with an imaginary line drawn from the outer nostril past the outer edge of the eye (C), and you thought geometry wouldn’t be useful later in life! It sounds complicated, but just follow the drawing.
- You can lift an experienced eye with strategic eyebrow shaping! With an experienced eye, the lid has a tendency to be heavy. Extending the brow down to the “D” line can drag the lid down and make the eyes look tired. Instead, try feathering the brow upward and out from the arch to just above the outer corner of the eye (E). Please keep it natural, we don’t want to create wings here!
- To minimize the curve of a round face, direct the outer third of the brow towards the top of the ear.
- If the face is square, direct it toward the middle of the ear. This helps balance the face.
- If the face is long, keep the brow more straight across, directing it above the ear.
- An oval face already looks balanced, but to enhance this harmony, you can direct the outer third towards the ear lobe.
No matter how full and perhaps even unruly your eyebrows are (hello!), a little eyebrow makeup works wonders for your look.
- At the very least groom them. Every morning when you do your makeup, run a Deluxe Spoolie Brush through them (it works much better than an old toothbrush, believe me I have tried them both).
- A bit of eyebrow wax will hold them in place beautifully.
- Most brows have some thin places that need to be filled in. Try the brow powders in our new Bitty Brow Kit, any appropriate shade of PurePressed Eye Shadow or a soft shade of Pencil (Taupe is a favorite). Comb the brows down and apply the color directly to the sparse patches on the skin. If the brow needs lengthening, apply the color with light feathery strokes.
- Brows can be colored and held in place in one step with PureBrow Gels. Lightly stroke the wand into the hairs, using a little at a time. Smooth with your Deluxe Spoolie Brush.
- If you want to preview a new brow look before you commit to plucking, use White or Taupe Pencil (depending on your skin tone) to color over the places you intend to pluck out.
- Beware of over plucking, as too-thin brows can actually age you (gasp)!
- Nobody’s eyebrows are totally symmetrical. Be careful of using stencils, as they can make your brows look unnatural.
- The hair and brow color should match pretty closely. PureBrow Gels can change the color of your brows, if you want. When my blonde sister goes very strawberry, she reaches for Auburn; or try the Bitty Brow Kit in Blonde.
- For silver-haired lovelies, try Longest Lash Mascara in Slate Grey on your brows. Or if you prefer powder, try Slate Brown PurePressed Eye Shadow.
So tell me, please! How important is brow maintenance to you? Do you DIY or do you have them shaped professionally? Do you wear eyebrow makeup? Pencil or powder?